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Il Sartoriale The World of Fine Menswear
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Il Sartoriale
はじめに ビスポーク・テーラー シューメーカー シャツメーカー 生地メーカーと商社 生地と素材
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27 エントリー

服の作られ方

良い服が実際にどのように作られるか、一つの技法ずつ：フル・キャンバスとは何か、ウェルテッドのソールはどのように取り付けられるか、手かがりのボタンホールはどのように見えるか。各ページでは、その違いが目と手で確かめられるものか、あるいは価格にのみ反映されるものかを明示する。

Construction

18 エントリー
A jacket front showing its full canvas 01

Full canvas construction

A hand-shaped skeleton of horsehair and wool, sewn (never glued) between cloth and lining.

 A jacket front showing a half canvas 02

Half canvas construction

Canvas through the chest and lapel, fusible below: the compromise most good ready-to-wear makes.

 Fusible interlining pressed onto cloth 03

Fused construction

An interlining bonded to the cloth with heat and adhesive. Fast, cheap, and the reason most suits feel like boards.

 Rows of pad stitches on a lapel canvas 04

Pad stitching

Thousands of small diagonal stitches that curl flat cloth into a permanent three-dimensional shape.

 An unlined jacket turned inside out 05

Unstructured construction

Shape from cutting and ironwork alone, with nothing inside the coat to help.

 A shoulder with the sleeve head gathered like a shirt 06

Spalla camicia (the shirt shoulder)

A sleeve set into a jacket the way a sleeve is set into a shirt: inside out, with the fullness gathered.
  1. A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head The roped shoulder

    The sleeve head lifted slightly proud of the shoulder line: the opposite decision to the Neapolitan one.
  2. A paper pattern drawn on brown paper Pattern drafting

    Turning a set of measurements and a look at a body into flat paper shapes. The part that decides everything.
  3. Shears cutting chalk-marked cloth Hand cutting

    One person, one pair of shears, one layer of cloth at a time.
  4. A basted jacket marked in chalk The basted fitting

    A garment loosely tacked together, tried on, marked in chalk, and then taken apart again.
  5. A sleeve being set into an armhole by hand The hand-set sleeve

    The one seam that most rewards a person doing it, because it is the one seam that has to be eased.
  6. Pick stitches along a lapel edge Pick stitching

    The small visible stitches along a lapel edge: sometimes a hand finish, more often a machine imitating one.
  7. A hand-worked silk buttonhole The hand-worked buttonhole

    Twenty minutes of silk and gimp for a hole that a machine can cut in fifteen seconds.
  8. The inside of a bespoke trouser waistband Trouser waistband construction

    The least glamorous part of a suit, and the part that decides whether the trousers sit where you put them.
  9. A tailor's iron shaping a shoulder over a ham Ironwork

    Ironwork is a tailor using heat, moisture and pressure to shrink and stretch wool into body-shaped curves, like a rounded shoulder, before sewing it.
  10. A check matched across a pocket flap Pattern matching

    Pattern matching means lining up stripes or checks across seams and pockets so the design looks unbroken, a quick sign of careful making.
  11. A shirt collar opened to show its layers Shirt collar construction

    How a shirt collar is lined and attached decides whether it sits stiff and flat or rolls softly, and cheaper shirts often cut corners here.
  12. A cutting room with pattern, basted jacket and ledger How a bespoke commission works

    A bespoke commission takes four to six months of measuring, a pattern made just for you, and repeated fittings, which are what you are paying for.

Shoemaking

7 エントリー
Hand-stitching a welt to an insole 01

Hand welting

The shoemaking equivalent of a hand-padded canvas: slow, invisible, and the basis of everything above it.

 A welted shoe cut in cross-section 02

Goodyear welting

Goodyear welting is the durable machine-stitched construction used on good English and American shoes, letting a worn sole be replaced without touching the top.

 The stitch line inside a Blake-stitched shoe 03

Blake stitching

Blake stitching joins the whole shoe with one seam inside it, giving the slim Italian look but making resoling harder and letting water in.

 A boot with a double-stitched storm welt 04

Norwegian construction

Norwegian construction turns the shoe's leather outward and stitches it twice, leaving two visible rows of stitching that make a strong, very water-resistant shoe.

 Leather pulled over a last with pincers 05

Hand lasting

Hand lasting is pulling wet leather over a wooden foot form with pincers, varying the tension by area for a closer, cleaner shape than machines give.

 Hides drying in a tannery loft 06

Tanning

Tanning turns hide into leather that won't rot, with quick chrome tanning giving soft shoe tops and slow bark tanning giving firmer soles that age nicely.
  1. Hand-shaped wooden lasts on a shelf The last

    A last is the designed wooden foot form a shoe is built around, and it sets how the shoe fits and looks.

Textile

2 エントリー
  1. A loom with a grey worsted warp Weaving

    Weaving crosses two sets of threads at right angles, and the pattern of crossing shapes how a cloth hangs, wears, creases and looks.
  2. Finished flannel passing over a roller Finishing

    Finishing is the washing, pressing and other treatment cloth gets after weaving, and it largely decides how the fabric feels, looks and shines.
写真クレジット 27
  1. A jacket front showing its full canvas: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. A jacket front showing a half canvas: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  3. Fusible interlining pressed onto cloth: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  4. Rows of pad stitches on a lapel canvas: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  5. An unlined jacket turned inside out: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  6. A shoulder with the sleeve head gathered like a shirt: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  7. A roped shoulder with a raised sleeve head: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  8. A paper pattern drawn on brown paper: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  9. Shears cutting chalk-marked cloth: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  10. A basted jacket marked in chalk: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  11. A sleeve being set into an armhole by hand: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  12. Pick stitches along a lapel edge: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  13. A hand-worked silk buttonhole: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  14. The inside of a bespoke trouser waistband: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  15. A tailor's iron shaping a shoulder over a ham: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  16. A check matched across a pocket flap: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  17. A shirt collar opened to show its layers: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  18. A cutting room with pattern, basted jacket and ledger: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  19. Hand-stitching a welt to an insole: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  20. A welted shoe cut in cross-section: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  21. The stitch line inside a Blake-stitched shoe: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  22. A boot with a double-stitched storm welt: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  23. Leather pulled over a last with pincers: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  24. Hides drying in a tannery loft: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  25. Hand-shaped wooden lasts on a shelf: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  26. A loom with a grey worsted warp: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  27. Finished flannel passing over a roller: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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