Naar de inhoud
Il Sartoriale The World of Fine Menswear
★
Il Sartoriale
Begin hier Kleermakers op maat Schoenmakers Hemdmakers Stoffenmakers & handelaren Stoffen & materialen
Vakmanschap Hoe kleding wordt gemaakt Kleedstijlen Vakmannen Geschiedenis
Kleding KledingstukkenAccessoires MerkenPersonen
Plaatsen StedenLanden Wereldkaart
Tools Zoek een kleermaker of schoenmakerVergelijkingen PrijzenVerklarende woordenlijst LerenNieuws Het archief raadplegenAI-agenten ★ OpgeslagenGratis API
Over Over onsMethodologie Redactioneel beleid Bronnen Licenties voor beeldmateriaal Hoe wij beoordelen CorrectiesContact
Instellingen
Donkere modus
Interfacetaal

Begeleide weergave
Nieuw hier? Elke pagina opent met een begrijpelijke toelichting voordat de details beginnen, en vakterm­en worden uitgelegd waar zij verschijnen.

Deskundige visie
U kent het vakjargon al. Rechtstreeks naar de kern, met de inleidende toelichtingen verborgen. Dit is de standaardinstelling.

★ Uw opgeslagen pagina's
470 lemma's over kleermakerij, schoenmakerij, laken en ambacht Naslagpublicatie: wij verkopen niets en rangschikken niemand tegen betaling Elk cijfer draagt zijn bron en de datum waarop het is gecontroleerd

Stad · Italy

Naples

Napoli

Naples is today's most influential tailoring city, known for soft, light jackets with little padding, high armholes and gathered sleeves, made for hot weather.

Naples is the most influential tailoring city in the world right now. Its workshops make a soft, light jacket with little or no padding, a high armhole and a sleeve gathered at the shoulder, built for a hot climate and copied everywhere. Most of the houses are small, family-run, and within walking distance of one another in the centre of the city.

Via Chiaia, Naples, seen through an iron grille
Napoli, Via Chiaia.
Kleermakers op maat8
Schoenmakers1
Hemdmakers3
Huizen bezoeken0 reist hierheen voor pasbeurten

Why Naples

For most of the twentieth century Naples was a provincial tailoring city with a strong local trade and no international profile. That changed within about twenty-five years, and the reason is climate plus timing: as business dress relaxed everywhere, the world discovered it wanted the jacket Naples had already been making for sixty years: light, soft, wearable without a tie, and forgiving of a body in motion.

The technical origin is usually traced to the London House of Gennaro Rubinacci, founded in 1932, and to Vincenzo Attolini, the cutter who worked there and is generally credited with stripping the English coat of its canvas and padding. Whether one man did it is arguable (the trade was moving that way), but the Rubinacci workshop is where the modern Neapolitan jacket is first clearly documented.

What the jacket actually does

The Neapolitan coat solves a specific problem: how to make a jacket that holds its shape without stiffness. The answers are a very light chest canvas or none at all, an unpadded shoulder, and a high, small armhole, which sounds restrictive and is the opposite, because a small armhole lets the arm move without dragging the body of the coat with it.

The visible signatures follow from that. The spalla camicia, shirt shoulder, is a sleeve set into the body with a little extra cloth gathered at the head, producing the small ripples you see across a Neapolitan shoulder. The barchetta breast pocket curves like a small boat. The patch pockets are set on rather than cut in. Quarters are open, the lapel often has a slight belly, and the whole coat is shorter than an English equivalent.

Where the workshops are

There is no Savile Row in Naples, no single street, but there is a rough geography. The Chiaia district, around Via Filangieri, Via dei Mille and Via Calabritto, holds the best-known shops including Rubinacci and several of the shirtmakers. Others work from apartments and first-floor workrooms scattered through the centre and out towards Vomero, often with no sign at all. This matters practically. A great deal of Neapolitan tailoring is invisible from the street, several of the most respected workshops take clients only by appointment, and the shop with the grandest window is not reliably the one with the best cutter.

Commissioning here

A first commission normally means a measure, a basted fitting and one or two forward fittings, typically over eight to sixteen weeks depending on the house and how much of the work is done in-house. Naples prices sit below London and Paris for comparable handwork, one of the reasons the city's international clientele grew as quickly as it did.

Two practical cautions. First, many Neapolitan houses subcontract to outworkers who make in their own homes; this is traditional and not a defect, but it means the quality of a garment depends on which maker it went to, and consistency varies. Second, August is not a working month. Much of the trade closes.

Worth seeing

  • The Chiaia streets themselves, which hold shirtmakers, glovemakers and tie makers alongside the tailors.
  • Museo di Capodimonte, for the portraiture that documents how Neapolitan men dressed before the trade existed.
  • The glove trade: Naples has made gloves for centuries and a handful of workshops still cut and sew by hand.

Afbeeldingen

The courtyard of Palazzo Filangieri d'Arianello, Naples
Il palzzo si trova a Napoli in via Atri.
A palazzo on the Riviera di Chiaia, Naples
Palazzo alla Riviera di Chiaia (Napoli)
The Riviera di Chiaia, Naples, in a painting by Anton Sminck Pitloo
Napoli: la Riviera di Chiaia
The glass roof of the Galleria Umberto I, Naples, from above
Neapel 2012
A street in Naples, the city where the soft tailored jacket was developed
Napoli; Via Chiaia
A street in Naples, the city where the soft tailored jacket was developed
"Napoli - Via Chiaia". Cartolina. Autore sconosciuto.
A street in Naples, the city where the soft tailored jacket was developed
Napoli, via Chiaia. Sullo sfondo l'ingresso al Palazzo Cellammare. Autore sconosciuto.
The Riviera di Chiaia, Naples, in an early photograph
Napoli - Riviera di Chiaia e Villa Comunale. Cartolina colorata. Autore sconosciuto.
Piazza Torretta and the Riviera di Chiaia, Naples, on an early postcard
"Napoli - Piazza Torretta e Riviera di Chiaia" a Mergellina. Cartolina. Catalogo n° 406. Autore sconosciuto.
The Riviera di Chiaia, Naples, on an early postcard
"Napoli - Riviera di Chiaia". Cartolina. Autore sconosciuto.
The Riviera di Chiaia and Castel Sant'Elmo, Naples, on an early postcard
"Napoli - Riviera di Chiaia e Castel Sant'Elmo". Cartolina. Autore sconosciuto.

Kleermakers op maat in Naples

Alle kleermakers op maat →
An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 01

Rubinacci

Rubinacci is the oldest and best-known tailoring house in Naples, founded in 1932, where the soft Neapolitan jacket without heavy padding was first created.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, high armhole. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 02

Cesare Attolini

Cesare Attolini is a Neapolitan clothing house run by descendants of the creator of the soft Neapolitan jacket, and it produces in volume while keeping much of the work done by…

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, restrained. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 03

Sartoria Dalcuore

Sartoria Dalcuore is a small Naples tailor known for soft, well-proportioned jackets and fine handwork, and other tailors rate it more highly than its modest fame suggests.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 04

Orazio Luciano

Orazio Luciano is a Neapolitan family workshop making soft, hand-finished jackets and suits, and most people discover it through shops in Japan and the United States.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, traditional neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 05

Sartoria Solito

Sartoria Solito is a small family tailor in Naples making very traditional jackets by appointment, and it is admired by fellow tailors and experienced customers.

 An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, classical neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 06

Sartoria Panico

Sartoria Panico is a small Naples tailoring workshop run by Antonio Panico, who trained at Rubinacci and cuts a classic jacket that many local tailors treat as the benchmark.
  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Sartoria Formosa Naples

    Sartoria Formosa is a Naples tailor whose soft, lightly built ready-to-wear jackets became familiar to many American shoppers, and it also makes clothes to order.
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Sartoria Ciardi Naples

    Sartoria Ciardi is a second-generation family tailor in Naples making soft jackets, and it takes many of its orders at traveling fittings held abroad.

Schoenmakers in Naples

Alle schoenmakers →
  1. An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Paolo Scafora Naples

    Paolo Scafora is a family shoemaker near Naples, known for hand-applied colour, lighter shoes suited to the Neapolitan climate, and distinctly Italian proportions.

Hemdmakers in Naples

Alle hemdmakers →
An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 01

Anna Matuozzo

Anna Matuozzo is a Naples shirtmaker, now run by the founder's daughters, whose custom shirts have unusually much hand sewing, including collars, sleeves and buttonholes.

 An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 02

D'Avino

D'Avino is a shirtmaker near Naples making small numbers of custom shirts, known above all for how many steps are sewn by hand.

 An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work. 03

Luca Avitabile

Luca Avitabile is a Naples shirtmaker who cuts each customer their own pattern and sews nearly everything by hand, mostly meeting clients in London and New York.

Stoffenmakers en handelaren in Naples

Alle stoffenmakers & handelaren →
  1. Caccioppoli Naples

    Caccioppoli is a Naples cloth merchant whose light, soft fabrics are standard in Neapolitan tailoring workshops and have spread abroad along with that style.

Brands based here in Naples

Alle merken →
  1. Kiton's shop in Toronto Kiton Naples · 1968

    Ciro Paone's answer to the question of whether Neapolitan handwork could be industrialised without being ruined.
  2. Isaia Naples · 1957

    Isaia is a Naples tailoring brand making soft, light jackets in bolder cloths and stronger colours than its neighbours, with a red coral lapel pin as its signature.

Het plaatselijke idioom

Kleedstijl

Neapolitan tailoring

Neapolitan jackets are as light and soft as possible, with little shoulder padding, gathered sleeves and a high armhole, and are the world's most copied style.

Praktische opmerkingen

Tradition
Neapolitan: soft, light, high armhole
Principal districts
Chiaia (Via Filangieri, Via dei Mille, Via Calabritto); workshops throughout the centre
Typical fittings
2–3 for a first commission
Also known for
Shirtmaking, gloves, ties, coral and cameo work
Trade closure
Most workshops close for much of August

Elders in Italy

Stad

Milan

Where Italian tailoring puts its jacket back on: cleaner, sharper and considerably more businesslike.

 Stad

Florence

Florentine tailors make soft, rounded jackets with wide lapels, and the city also hosts Pitti Uomo, the menswear trade's twice-yearly gathering.

 Stad

Rome

Roman tailors cut lightly built jackets that sit close to the body, landing between soft Neapolitan and more structured Milanese styles.

 Stad

Biella

Biella is where much of the world's fine suit cloth is spun and woven, by mills like Loro Piana and Vitale Barberis Canonico.
Laatst beoordeeld: September 2026 Meld een fout op deze pagina

Bronnen

  1. Costume and portrait collections, Naples , Museo di Capodimonte.

Waar een cijfer betwist is of een huis het niet heeft gepubliceerd, zegt de pagina dat, in plaats van een getal te kiezen.

Gerelateerd

GidsBespoke tailoring in Naples: the houses and how to choose GeschiedenisHow Naples took the weight out of the jacket KleedstijlNeapolitan tailoring LandItaly VakmanVincenzo Attolini VakmanAntonio Panico VakmanCiro Paone VakmanGennaro Rubinacci AccessoireGloves GidsHow much does a bespoke suit cost? TechniekSpalla camicia (the shirt shoulder) GlossariumtermBarchetta pocket
Fotorechten 25
  1. Napoli, Via Chiaia: Photograph · Palickap · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  2. Palazzo Filangieri d'Arianello. 0023: Photograph · Peppe Guida · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
  3. Palazzo alla Riviera di Chiaia (1): Photograph · Baku · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
  4. Napoli: la Riviera di Chiaia: Photograph · Antonie Sminck Pitloo · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  5. Napoli -Vetrata della Galleria Umberto I - 2012 by-RaBoe 01: Photograph · © Ra Boe / Wikipedia · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0 de
  6. 02032-Napoli-1901-Via Chiaia-Brück & Sohn Kunstverlag: Photograph · Brück & Sohn Kunstverlag Meißen · Wikimedia Commons · CC0
  7. Napoli, Via Chiaia 7: Postcard · Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  8. Napoli, Via Chiaia 5: Photograph · Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  9. Napoli, Riviera di Chiaia 3: Postcard · Unknown author Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  10. Napoli, Riviera di Chiaia 4: Postcard · Unknown author Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  11. Napoli, Riviera di Chiaia 5: Postcard · Unknown author Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  12. Napoli, Riviera di Chiaia 7: Postcard · Unknown author Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  13. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  14. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, high armhole. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  15. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, restrained. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  16. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  17. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, traditional neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  18. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, classical neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  19. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  20. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  21. An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  22. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  23. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  24. An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  25. IMG Kiton Toronto: Photograph · Shanmeichen · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 4.0

Beeldbeleid