城市 · Italy
Naples
Napoli
Naples is today's most influential tailoring city, known for soft, light jackets with little padding, high armholes and gathered sleeves, made for hot weather.
Naples is the most influential tailoring city in the world right now. Its workshops make a soft, light jacket with little or no padding, a high armhole and a sleeve gathered at the shoulder, built for a hot climate and copied everywhere. Most of the houses are small, family-run, and within walking distance of one another in the centre of the city.
Why Naples
For most of the twentieth century Naples was a provincial tailoring city with a strong local trade and no international profile. That changed within about twenty-five years, and the reason is climate plus timing: as business dress relaxed everywhere, the world discovered it wanted the jacket Naples had already been making for sixty years: light, soft, wearable without a tie, and forgiving of a body in motion.
The technical origin is usually traced to the London House of Gennaro Rubinacci, founded in 1932, and to Vincenzo Attolini, the cutter who worked there and is generally credited with stripping the English coat of its canvas and padding. Whether one man did it is arguable (the trade was moving that way), but the Rubinacci workshop is where the modern Neapolitan jacket is first clearly documented.
What the jacket actually does
The Neapolitan coat solves a specific problem: how to make a jacket that holds its shape without stiffness. The answers are a very light chest canvas or none at all, an unpadded shoulder, and a high, small armhole, which sounds restrictive and is the opposite, because a small armhole lets the arm move without dragging the body of the coat with it.
The visible signatures follow from that. The spalla camicia, shirt shoulder, is a sleeve set into the body with a little extra cloth gathered at the head, producing the small ripples you see across a Neapolitan shoulder. The barchetta breast pocket curves like a small boat. The patch pockets are set on rather than cut in. Quarters are open, the lapel often has a slight belly, and the whole coat is shorter than an English equivalent.
Where the workshops are
There is no Savile Row in Naples, no single street, but there is a rough geography. The Chiaia district, around Via Filangieri, Via dei Mille and Via Calabritto, holds the best-known shops including Rubinacci and several of the shirtmakers. Others work from apartments and first-floor workrooms scattered through the centre and out towards Vomero, often with no sign at all. This matters practically. A great deal of Neapolitan tailoring is invisible from the street, several of the most respected workshops take clients only by appointment, and the shop with the grandest window is not reliably the one with the best cutter.
Commissioning here
A first commission normally means a measure, a basted fitting and one or two forward fittings, typically over eight to sixteen weeks depending on the house and how much of the work is done in-house. Naples prices sit below London and Paris for comparable handwork, one of the reasons the city's international clientele grew as quickly as it did.
Two practical cautions. First, many Neapolitan houses subcontract to outworkers who make in their own homes; this is traditional and not a defect, but it means the quality of a garment depends on which maker it went to, and consistency varies. Second, August is not a working month. Much of the trade closes.
Worth seeing
- The Chiaia streets themselves, which hold shirtmakers, glovemakers and tie makers alongside the tailors.
- Museo di Capodimonte, for the portraiture that documents how Neapolitan men dressed before the trade existed.
- The glove trade: Naples has made gloves for centuries and a handful of workshops still cut and sew by hand.
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手工定制裁缝 于 Naples
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01
Rubinacci
Rubinacci is the oldest and best-known tailoring house in Naples, founded in 1932, where the soft Neapolitan jacket without heavy padding was first created.
02
Cesare Attolini
Cesare Attolini is a Neapolitan clothing house run by descendants of the creator of the soft Neapolitan jacket, and it produces in volume while keeping much of the work done by…
03
Sartoria Dalcuore
Sartoria Dalcuore is a small Naples tailor known for soft, well-proportioned jackets and fine handwork, and other tailors rate it more highly than its modest fame suggests.
04
Orazio Luciano
Orazio Luciano is a Neapolitan family workshop making soft, hand-finished jackets and suits, and most people discover it through shops in Japan and the United States.
05
Sartoria Solito
Sartoria Solito is a small family tailor in Naples making very traditional jackets by appointment, and it is admired by fellow tailors and experienced customers.
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Sartoria Panico
Sartoria Panico is a small Naples tailoring workshop run by Antonio Panico, who trained at Rubinacci and cuts a classic jacket that many local tailors treat as the benchmark.
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Sartoria Formosa
NaplesSartoria Formosa is a Naples tailor whose soft, lightly built ready-to-wear jackets became familiar to many American shoppers, and it also makes clothes to order.
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Sartoria Ciardi
NaplesSartoria Ciardi is a second-generation family tailor in Naples making soft jackets, and it takes many of its orders at traveling fittings held abroad.
制鞋商 于 Naples
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衬衫定制商 于 Naples
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01
Anna Matuozzo
Anna Matuozzo is a Naples shirtmaker, now run by the founder's daughters, whose custom shirts have unusually much hand sewing, including collars, sleeves and buttonholes.
02
D'Avino
D'Avino is a shirtmaker near Naples making small numbers of custom shirts, known above all for how many steps are sewn by hand.
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Luca Avitabile
Luca Avitabile is a Naples shirtmaker who cuts each customer their own pattern and sews nearly everything by hand, mostly meeting clients in London and New York.
织造商与布料商 于 Naples
全部 织造商与布料商 →Brands based here 于 Naples
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Kiton
Naples · 1968Ciro Paone's answer to the question of whether Neapolitan handwork could be industrialised without being ruined.
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Isaia
Naples · 1957
Isaia is a Naples tailoring brand making soft, light jackets in bolder cloths and stronger colours than its neighbours, with a red coral lapel pin as its signature.
地方风格
实用说明
其他内容，载于 Italy
Milan
Where Italian tailoring puts its jacket back on: cleaner, sharper and considerably more businesslike.
城市Florence
Florentine tailors make soft, rounded jackets with wide lapels, and the city also hosts Pitti Uomo, the menswear trade's twice-yearly gathering.
城市Rome
Roman tailors cut lightly built jackets that sit close to the body, landing between soft Neapolitan and more structured Milanese styles.
城市Biella
Biella is where much of the world's fine suit cloth is spun and woven, by mills like Loro Piana and Vitale Barberis Canonico.
参考资料
- Costume and portrait collections, Naples , Museo di Capodimonte.
若某项数据存在争议，或工坊未予公开，本页将如实说明，而非擅自采用某一数字。
图片版权 25
- Napoli, Via Chiaia: Photograph · Palickap · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
- Palazzo Filangieri d'Arianello. 0023: Photograph · Peppe Guida · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
- Palazzo alla Riviera di Chiaia (1): Photograph · Baku · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
- Napoli: la Riviera di Chiaia: Photograph · Antonie Sminck Pitloo · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
- Napoli -Vetrata della Galleria Umberto I - 2012 by-RaBoe 01: Photograph · © Ra Boe / Wikipedia · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0 de
- 02032-Napoli-1901-Via Chiaia-Brück & Sohn Kunstverlag: Photograph · Brück & Sohn Kunstverlag Meißen · Wikimedia Commons · CC0
- Napoli, Via Chiaia 7: Postcard · Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
- Napoli, Via Chiaia 5: Photograph · Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
- Napoli, Riviera di Chiaia 3: Postcard · Unknown author Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
- Napoli, Riviera di Chiaia 4: Postcard · Unknown author Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
- Napoli, Riviera di Chiaia 5: Postcard · Unknown author Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
- Napoli, Riviera di Chiaia 7: Postcard · Unknown author Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, high armhole. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, restrained. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, traditional neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, classical neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- An illustration of a shirt of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
- IMG Kiton Toronto: Photograph · Shanmeichen · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 4.0