Pembuat Sepatu · Naples

Paolo Scafora

Paolo Scafora is a family shoemaker near Naples, known for hand-applied colour, lighter shoes suited to the Neapolitan climate, and distinctly Italian proportions.

Paolo Scafora makes shoes near Naples in a family business, offering made-to-order and bespoke. The house is known for hand-applied colour and patina, for lighter constructions suited to the Neapolitan climate, and for a distinctly Italian sense of proportion.

BespokeMade-to-measureReady-to-wear

An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.

Gaya rumah mode — bahu: tidak terdokumentasi

Dada — substantial handwork

Fitting — 6–30 minggu

Dari $1,100 terendah yang terdokumentasi, setelah konversi

Colour and construction

Scafora's shoes are recognisable by their finishing: hand-applied dyes in layers, producing depth and variation that a uniformly dyed leather cannot. The Neapolitan sensibility about colour, which in tailoring shows up as a brown suit, shows up here as a shoe in three shades of chestnut.

Constructions include Blake and Goodyear as well as hand welting, which is normal for an Italian house and worth checking model by model.

The patina

Colour applied by hand in translucent layers to a finished shoe, producing tonal depth that a uniformly dyed leather cannot. It is done to order, so a customer can specify a colour rather than choose from a range.

It is finishing rather than construction, and it wears: a patina shoe needs matching cream to maintain and will change over years. That is generally regarded as a feature.

Reading the construction

Italian shoemakers commonly offer several constructions across one range, and the house is no exception: Blake, Blake-rapid, Goodyear and hand-welted all appear depending on the model. That is not a criticism, but it means the construction has to be checked per shoe rather than assumed from the maker.

Blake construction produces the slim, close-trimmed profile Italian shoes are known for; it is less water-resistant and needs a specialist for resoling.

Naples, in colour

The Neapolitan shoe trade takes a position on colour and finish that the English trade spent a century avoiding, and Scafora is among the clearest examples: hand-antiqued finishes, unusual combinations, and a willingness to treat the shoe as part of an outfit rather than as its foundation.

Hand welted

holdfast dipahat dari insole

holdfast adalah bagian dari insol

Dapat diganti solnya: berulang kali

Goodyear welted

rib canvas direkatkan ke insole

gemming direkatkan: bagian yang rentan gagal

Dapat diganti solnya: beberapa kali

Blake

satu jahitan menembus semua lapisan

jahitan masuk ke dalam sepatu

Dapat diganti solnya: dengan mesin Blake

Cemented

sol direkatkan ke upper

perekat saja

Dapat diganti solnya: umumnya tidak

upper insole welt outsole

Bagaimana sol ditempelkan, dan apakah dapat diganti Welt pada dua konstruksi di sebelah kiri menopang jahitan sol, sehingga sol dapat dilepas tanpa mengganggu upper. Pengelasan tangan memotong alurnya dari insol itu sendiri; Goodyear merekatkan rusuk kanvas, dan rusuk itulah yang pada akhirnya akan gagal. Diagram dibuat untuk Il Sartoriale.

Rekam jejak

Kota

Naples

Negara

Italy

Service levels

Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear

Bahu