Сапожник · Naples

Paolo Scafora

Paolo Scafora is a family shoemaker near Naples, known for hand-applied colour, lighter shoes suited to the Neapolitan climate, and distinctly Italian proportions.

Paolo Scafora makes shoes near Naples in a family business, offering made-to-order and bespoke. The house is known for hand-applied colour and patina, for lighter constructions suited to the Neapolitan climate, and for a distinctly Italian sense of proportion.

BespokeMade-to-measureГотовая одежда

An illustration of a welted shoe of the kind the house makes. Not a photograph of the house's own work.

Стиль дома — плечо: не задокументировано

Грудь — substantial handwork

Примерки — 6–30 недели

От $1,100 минимальная задокументированная цена, конвертирована

Colour and construction

Scafora's shoes are recognisable by their finishing: hand-applied dyes in layers, producing depth and variation that a uniformly dyed leather cannot. The Neapolitan sensibility about colour, which in tailoring shows up as a brown suit, shows up here as a shoe in three shades of chestnut.

Constructions include Blake and Goodyear as well as hand welting, which is normal for an Italian house and worth checking model by model.

The patina

Colour applied by hand in translucent layers to a finished shoe, producing tonal depth that a uniformly dyed leather cannot. It is done to order, so a customer can specify a colour rather than choose from a range.

It is finishing rather than construction, and it wears: a patina shoe needs matching cream to maintain and will change over years. That is generally regarded as a feature.

Reading the construction

Italian shoemakers commonly offer several constructions across one range, and the house is no exception: Blake, Blake-rapid, Goodyear and hand-welted all appear depending on the model. That is not a criticism, but it means the construction has to be checked per shoe rather than assumed from the maker.

Blake construction produces the slim, close-trimmed profile Italian shoes are known for; it is less water-resistant and needs a specialist for resoling.

Naples, in colour

The Neapolitan shoe trade takes a position on colour and finish that the English trade spent a century avoiding, and Scafora is among the clearest examples: hand-antiqued finishes, unusual combinations, and a willingness to treat the shoe as part of an outfit rather than as its foundation.

Ручной рант

holdfast вырезан из стельки

holdfast является частью стельки

Возможность замены подошвы: неоднократно

Рант Goodyear

ребро канваса приклеено к стельке

геммирование приклеено: именно эта часть выходит из строя

Возможность замены подошвы: несколько раз

Blake

один шов сквозь все слои

шов уходит внутрь обуви

Возможность замены подошвы: на машине Blake

На клею

подошва приклеена к верху

только на клею

Возможность замены подошвы: как правило, нет

верх стелька рант подошва

Как крепится подошва и допускает ли она замену Рант в двух левых конструкциях несёт строчку крепления подошвы, поэтому подошва снимается, не затрагивая верх. При ручном рантовом методе гребень вырезается из самой стельки; при методе Goodyear парусиновый рант приклеивается, и именно он со временем приходит в негодность. Схема составлена для Il Sartoriale.

Запись

Город

Naples

Страна

Italy

Service levels

Bespoke · Made-to-measure · Ready-to-wear

Плечо