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Режим с подсказками
Впервые здесь? Каждая страница открывается доступным объяснением, прежде чем начинается детальное изложение, а технические термины расшифровываются по ходу текста.

Мнение эксперта
Словарь вам известен. Сразу к существу дела, с убранными вводными пояснениями. Это режим по умолчанию.

★ Сохранённые страницы
Независимое издание: никто не платит за присутствие здесь

Справочник по миру дорогой мужской одежды

Что такое лучшая одежда, кто её создаёт и почему она стоит столько, сколько стоит.

Il Sartoriale документирует дома, мастеров, ткани и технологии, стоящие за серьёзной мужской одеждой, — от ателье над неаполитанским двором до фабрики в холмах Бьеллы, — и представляет их так, чтобы одной и той же страницей мог пользоваться и новичок, и коллекционер.

С чего начать Найти портного или сапожника

A charcoal double-breasted suit, white shirt and dark green knitted tie, one hand fastening the jacket button
A charcoal double-breasted suit, white shirt and dark green knitted tie, one hand fastening the jacket button

Что есть на этом сайте

Как устроен сайт →
A bespoke jacket in progress on a tailor's dummy 01

Портные, работающие на заказ

Ателье, которые шьют костюм вручную с нуля по вашим меркам.

 Hand-welted oxford shoes beside a wooden last 02

Сапожники

Производители обуви на вельтовой подошве — от готовой до полностью индивидуальной.

 Folded shirts with a card of mother-of-pearl buttons 03

Сорочечники

Ателье, которые шьют рубашки по вашим меркам.

 Bolts of woollen suiting in a cloth merchant's 04

Производители и торговцы тканями

Компании, ткущие ткань, и торговцы, продающие её портным.

 A fan of cloth swatches 05

Ткани и материалы

Шерсть, кашемир, лён, кожа и прочее: что это такое и как носится.

 A rail of finished suits on wooden hangers 06

Бренды

Крупные люксовые марки мужской одежды: кто ими владеет и где производится одежда.

 Hands pad-stitching a lapel canvas 07

Как шьют одежду

Конструкция хорошей одежды — приём за приёмом, и можно ли увидеть разницу.

 Inside the Galleria Umberto I, Naples 08

Города

Где работают лучшие портные и сапожники — по городам.

Если вы здесь впервые

Весь путь →

Девять коротких страниц, по порядку. Они рассчитаны на тех, кто не знает ничего, и заканчиваются тем, что вы способны войти в любое серьёзное ателье и понять, что вам показывают.

  1. Why expensive clothes cost moreA £4,000 suit costs more than a £200 one mostly because of hours of skilled handwork and fittings, more than the cloth, though brand plays a part.
  2. Bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wearReady-to-wear comes in standard sizes, made-to-measure adjusts a standard pattern, and bespoke draws a new pattern just for you, refined through fittings.
  3. How a great suit is actually madeA good tailored jacket has a horsehair and wool inner layer shaped with hand stitching, cloth shaped with an iron, and repeated fittings on the body.
  4. How a suit should fitWhen buying a suit, get the shoulders right first because they cannot be altered, while the collar, chest, sleeves, length and waist can be adjusted.
  5. Understanding fabricFabric is described by its fibre, weight, weave and fin
  6. What full canvas meansThere is a hand-shaped skeleton inside a good jacket. You can feel it in ten seconds.
  7. Choosing your first serious suitNavy or mid-grey, plain, eleven ounces, half canvas at least, and spend the difference on alterations.
  8. Understanding shoesA shoe's construction decides whether it can be resoled, which is what makes an expensive pair an investment rather than an extravagance.
  9. Caring for fine clothingWool mostly cleans itself with airing and brushing, so rest, brushing and good hangers keep clothes going longer than dry cleaning, which strips the fibre's oils.
A tailor's bench with shears, chalk, thimble and a half-made jacket front
A tailor's bench with shears, chalk, thimble and a half-made jacket front

Портные, которых стоит знать

Все портные, работающие на заказ →

Ателье, которые шьют костюм вручную с нуля по вашим меркам, в несколько примерок. Восемь наиболее известных представлены здесь; все они, с ценами и тем, чем каждое славится, — на странице портных.

  1. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Rubinacci Naples · 1932

    Rubinacci is the oldest and best-known tailoring house in Naples, founded in 1932, where the soft Neapolitan jacket without heavy padding was first created.
  2. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, high armhole. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Cesare Attolini Naples · 1930

    Cesare Attolini is a Neapolitan clothing house run by descendants of the creator of the soft Neapolitan jacket, and it produces in volume while keeping much of the work done by…
  3. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, restrained. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Sartoria Dalcuore Naples

    Sartoria Dalcuore is a small Naples tailor known for soft, well-proportioned jackets and fine handwork, and other tailors rate it more highly than its modest fame suggests.
  4. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Orazio Luciano Naples

    Orazio Luciano is a Neapolitan family workshop making soft, hand-finished jackets and suits, and most people discover it through shops in Japan and the United States.
  5. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, traditional neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Sartoria Solito Naples

    Sartoria Solito is a small family tailor in Naples making very traditional jackets by appointment, and it is admired by fellow tailors and experienced customers.
  6. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, classical neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Sartoria Panico Naples

    Sartoria Panico is a small Naples tailoring workshop run by Antonio Panico, who trained at Rubinacci and cuts a classic jacket that many local tailors treat as the benchmark.
  7. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Sartoria Formosa Naples

    Sartoria Formosa is a Naples tailor whose soft, lightly built ready-to-wear jackets became familiar to many American shoppers, and it also makes clothes to order.
  8. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work. Sartoria Ciardi Naples

    Sartoria Ciardi is a second-generation family tailor in Naples making soft jackets, and it takes many of its orders at traveling fittings held abroad.

Ткани

Все материалы →

Из чего шьют одежду и как каждый материал носится. Каждая страница начинается с простого изложения и углубляется в детали лишь по мере чтения.

Navy worsted wool suiting, close up 01

Wool

The default fibre of tailoring, for reasons that are structural rather than traditional.

 Fine merino yarn and a square of merino worsted 02

Merino wool

One breed of sheep, bred for fineness over five centuries, supplying almost all fine suiting.

 A folded cashmere sweater with a tuft of raw fibre 03

Cashmere

The undercoat of a goat that lives somewhere very cold, combed out by hand each spring.

 Fine pale cashmere knit on a wooden hanger 04

Baby cashmere

The first combing from a young goat: finer, scarcer, softer, and not more durable.

 A length of vicuña cloth in its natural golden colour 05

Vicuña

The finest animal fibre in commercial use, from a wild Andean camelid that was nearly hunted to extinction and is now shorn alive under licence.

 A guanaco scarf in warm honey-brown 06

Guanaco

Vicuña's larger cousin, and the fibre people reach for when vicuña is out of the question.

Сравнение по параметрам

Все сравнения →
Сравнение
Kiton vsBrioni

Naples against Rome: a soft light jacket that moves, or a clean structured one that imposes. Both made to a very high standard, and the choice is aesthetic.

 Сравнение
Goodyear welting vshand welting

The same idea executed two ways: a glued canvas rib and a machine, or a ridge carved from the insole and a needle. One is affordable; the other has nothing that can fail.

 Сравнение
Bespoke vsmade-to-measure

An individual pattern drafted from nothing and corrected on your body, or a standard pattern modified to your measurements. The difference is not hand stitching.

 Сравнение
Cashmere vsvicuña

Both are fine animal down. One is farmed and available at every price; the other is shorn from wild animals under licence and is the most expensive cloth in the world.

 Сравнение
Anderson & Sheppard vsHuntsman

The clearest choice on Savile Row: a soft draped coat that hangs and moves, or a lean structured one that imposes a line.

 Сравнение
Full canvas vshalf canvas

One runs a stitched canvas from shoulder to hem; the other stops at the chest and fuses below. The difference is drape, alterability and roughly a third of the labour.

Города

Карта мира →
Via Chiaia, Naples, seen through an iron grille 01

Naples

Naples is today's most influential tailoring city, known for soft, light jackets with little padding, high armholes and gathered sleeves, made for hot weather.

 Savile Row, London — the street where bespoke tailoring was formalised 02

London

London's Savile Row holds the world's oldest still-trading tailoring houses, cutting jackets with a firm chest and defined shoulder, with shoemakers and shirtmakers close by.

 Place Vendôme, Paris — home of Charvet and the Parisian luxury trade 03

Paris

Paris has a tiny, distinctive tailoring trade making jackets with rounded built-up shoulders and very clean chests, and it is home to shirtmaker Charvet.

 Via della Spiga, Milan 04

Milan

Where Italian tailoring puts its jacket back on: cleaner, sharper and considerably more businesslike.

 Florence, home of the Florentine tailoring tradition 05

Florence

Florentine tailors make soft, rounded jackets with wide lapels, and the city also hosts Pitti Uomo, the menswear trade's twice-yearly gathering.

 Rome, where a long lean tailoring line is cut 06

Rome

Roman tailors cut lightly built jackets that sit close to the body, landing between soft Neapolitan and more structured Milanese styles.

Откуда всё это взялось

История →
A modern suit beside a frock coat 01 История

How the suit happened

The modern suit grew from the coat, waistcoat and breeches of the 1660s English court, simplified by country and riding clothes over two centuries.

 A chalk-stripe jacket in a bright cutting room 02 История

How Savile Row happened

Savile Row filled with tailors around 1800 to be near aristocratic clients, and it is now a small trade with a famous name and too few makers.

Вопросы, которые задают чаще всего

Все руководства →
  1. Bespoke tailoring in Naples: the houses and how to choose
  2. Where the value actually is
  3. Bespoke tailoring in London: Savile Row house by house
  4. How to choose cloth
  5. Bespoke vs made-to-measure
  6. Where to have shoes made

В новостях

Все новости →
BRÜCKNER: Brazilian Market Leader Cedro Têxtil Focuses On Greater Efficiency, Sustainability, And Product Quality With Brückner Textile World 9 October 2026
Fashion For Good Launches The Cotton Reloop Matrix Project To Unlock Commercial Scale For Recycled Cotton Textile World 9 October 2026
Teijin Expands PFAS-Free High-performance Resin Lineup Textile World 9 October 2026
TRSA And Association Laboratory Expand Partnership To Provide Industry Research And Business Intelligence Textile World 9 October 2026
Heritage and Handbags: Storytelling Takes Center Stage for Contemporary Brands at Paris Fashion Week WWD 9 October 2026

Заголовки ведут к публикациям первоисточников. Il Sartoriale не воспроизводит их материалы.

Фотографии 32
  1. A charcoal double-breasted suit, white shirt and dark green knitted tie, one hand fastening the jacket button: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  2. A tailor's bench with shears, chalk, thimble and a half-made jacket front: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  3. A bespoke jacket in progress on a tailor's dummy: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  4. Hand-welted oxford shoes beside a wooden last: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  5. Folded shirts with a card of mother-of-pearl buttons: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  6. Bolts of woollen suiting in a cloth merchant's: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  7. A fan of cloth swatches: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  8. Hands pad-stitching a lapel canvas: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  9. Galleria Umberto I Naples n01: Photograph · Marie-Lan Nguyen · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.5
  10. A rail of finished suits on wooden hangers: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  11. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft, short, open quarters. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  12. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, high armhole. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  13. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan, restrained. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  14. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  15. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, traditional neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  16. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, classical neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  17. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: natural shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  18. An illustration of the house's recorded cut: shirt shoulder, light canvas chest, soft neapolitan. Not a photograph of the house's own work.: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  19. Navy worsted wool suiting, close up: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  20. Fine merino yarn and a square of merino worsted: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  21. A folded cashmere sweater with a tuft of raw fibre: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  22. Fine pale cashmere knit on a wooden hanger: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  23. A length of vicuña cloth in its natural golden colour: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  24. A guanaco scarf in warm honey-brown: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  25. Napoli, Via Chiaia: Photograph · Palickap · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  26. Savile Row 1: Photograph · User:Edward · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  27. Place Vendome, Paris, France, ca. 1890-1900: Photograph · Unknown author · Wikimedia Commons · Public domain
  28. Via della Spiga - Milano - Quadrilatero della moda: Photograph · Stefano Stabile · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0
  29. Firenze - Florence - Via del Forte di San Giorgio - View East: Photograph · Txllxt TxllxT · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
  30. Via dei Condotti: Photograph · Perituss · Wikimedia Commons · CC0
  31. A modern suit beside a frock coat: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art
  32. A chalk-stripe jacket in a bright cutting room: Original art · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale · Il Sartoriale original art

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